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Nice post pascal and something I really agree with myself. It’s nice to know someone’s back story as opposed to just their place of origin. I gives a much better pic.
A better way of phrasing your question to minorities is, “What is your heritage?” or “What ethnicity are you?”. As an Asian-American, born and raised in the States, Asia is as foreign to me as it is to you. It is not a place I’m “from” or identify myself with. I think this is the biggest difference between Americans and Europeans. In the States, you’re an American if you’re born here; whereas in Europe where there is a huge lack of diversity, just because you were born in Germany – it doesn’t make you German. Although, your curiosity is genuine, it comes off as highly ignorant. As an avid traveler, where I am from means my home, cultural roots, a place that has shaped the way I talk, think… My humor. The more you travel, the more the idea of “where are you from” begins to take a less definite answer. It is a conceptual question. How could you possibly insist that someone is from a certain country purely based on the color of their skin? I’ve come to realize this concept is difficult for Europeans to understand but as one traveler to another, you can’t be authentically curious when you already have the answer. Curiosity comes with an open-mind.
Hey Amber, thanks for really takeing your time and to write that reply. BUT it kinda sound like you feel offended. As i said, that’s the last thing i want to do.
“What is your heritage?”… i’ll keep that in mind and try to find out next time how people answer and react to this one. Keep in mind that i’m not a nativ english speaker and never even really studied English and only picked it up from talking to people, musik, breading books and TV.
I like your sentence:”whereas in Europe where there is a huge lack of diversity”! this coming from someone living in such a big country with not even a official language and a huge majority not speaking a second language is kinda funny. I understand something different in the words:” huge lack of diversity”, but maybe I’m just wrong as i come from a Continent smaller than your country, but having more then 50 Countries here. But yes, we probable really lack in diversity, coming from a country of less than 8 million people and four different official languages, not talking about all the people who live here from other countries, the languages they speak and the culture they brought here and keep alive.
Also what you say further down is kinda funny:” I’ve come to realize this concept is difficult for Europeans…” So as you are such a experienced traveler, it looks like you know that all the Europeans are the same?
But this is maybe an US-American thiking (i don’t know, i’ve never been there). I remember reading in a Surfmag from your Countryabout a competition where a Hawaiian won, a American became second and as they called him, a Europen became 3th. He was actually German, but as it looks, or maybe because we lack in diversity;) all Europe is the same, BUT Hawaii, a State of the US is names separate, Aaand, America is a Continent and not a Country, but that is another story.
And sorry for being so annoying, but i don’t really understand what you mean with:” you can’t be authentically curious when you already have the answer”? I am asking because i don’t know the answer? But maybe your german is better than my English and you can explane it to me…
And to end the whole thing, I hope you take the whole thing here with as much humor and a smile in your face as i do 😉
Hi! I read your comment on couchsurfing philippines! thanks so much, the info is really helpful!! btw, awesome shots!! i was wondering in which season did you go. Dry season? wet monzon season? How long did you stayed there? Lucky guy!! I hope to find some waves like those!
If you ever come back again to San Sebastian, contact me! surfing y buena onda!
Marta
Hola Marta,
I was there in September for a bit over three weeks and didn’t know that my visa was only valid for 21 days! So don’t forget to take care of this.
Where in Indonesia should we go ? I would like some names of beaches or towns. Merci, Heidi. I like your web initiatives. You have a free spirit and a very creative mind. Good luck in all your stuff, Pascal.
Ciao Pascal I forwarded your site on to some friends tonight who are making a surf trip to El Salvador and wanted some advices. So finally now I took more than a quick glance at your website and paid attention to the words more closely. I enjoy your “thoughts along the way” section most and found the conversation you had with the girl on the “where are you from” page particularly funny, especially the “in Europe where there is a huge lack of diversity” ha ha and… some parts of your response.
But this page on Sri Lanka I really responded to. Sri Lanka was one of the few countries I’ve ever dreamed of visiting but I kind of forgot about it. But the way you speak of it, especially the train rides, I started to ache for it. A real longing. Now I really want to go again. Long ago I bought a guide book to plan a trip there even though I didn’t have a ticket or a plan, I just thought, someday… It’s funny because I had forgotten about this until I read your post. Maybe I’ll start my own blog at some point, if only to remind myself of where I’ve been, where I am, and where I must go…
well done C Bernardus gud comments 1st of all i like to wish all the best to our nataonl team we can do it man we’ll do it this time guys now we have a squad for our T-20 world cup. its a great n balance team. now its not a time to blame or tell anything wrong to anyone coz now we have to encourage the team & every Sri Lankan player. now the job is in their hand, selection commitee kept the faith on Sanath coz they think he will deliver the good in the worls cup. we must encourage him also & our Cricket captan Sanga.Sanga you are doing a great job but i see some mistakes.when you are under pressure you should be calm.when u are batting you handle the pressure very well but when you are on the field you should be calm and not to be pannic. you have lot of expeirience guys you should get the best out of them with their performences n ideas. this is what i think sanga u can do it.again wishing all the best to our team. we can beat them all . (0)
I do accept as true with all of the ideas you have introduced on your post. They are very convincing and can certainly work. Nonetheless, the posts are too short for starters. Could you please extend them a bit from subsequent time? Thanks for the post.
Love this concept! So inspirational that you figured out way to continue your surf travels for over 7 years. I’m working on it as I like to keep surfing … and try many other things to check off on my bucket list. Cheers!
I have recently started a blog, the information you offer on this website has helped me greatly. Thanks for all of your time & work. “The more sand that has escaped from the hourglass of our life, the clearer we should see through it.” by Jean Paul.
Jenny Sosa – Hi, it so nice to see the beautiful faces of my peolpe in Honduras, unfortunately i don’t get to visit my original home land very often at all You being there is a sweet reminder of God’s answered prayers and a reminder how he cares for ALL his peolpe, I know the peolpe in Honduras are very thankful for the little things as well as very giving of the little that they have, must of my family still there lives in El Paraiso, you can get some great coffee there!Thank you for bringing joy to a peolpe who very few know are there, but our God knows and he cares and loves them! Que la pasen muy bien.Jenny.
Now, Jeevantha Kulatunga the bowler. 4 Wickets in 25 overs , low E/R of 2.6 , 5 maedins, in yesterday (22/4/2010) Wayamba Bas. North Inter Prov match. All these while Kulatunga had been sidelined in the bowling dept. Muba had no option but to give Kulatunga bowling in this match since he has run out of bowlers because regular bowlers like Wela, Ajantha are out at T20 WC. Decision to giving some overs for a player to bowl is in the captains hands. While Muba as the captain was bowling more overs than any player in all the matches putting the teams winning the matches at risk even when the regular bowlers are present in numbers, Kulatunga despite his good bowling abilities, was never considered for a fair bowling opportunity. One eg, is in 2009 Prov, T20 final, when the opening pair was hammering the regular bowlers , Kulatunga was given one over and he broke the partnership taking a catch from his own bowling and if the couple of catches were not dropped he would have gotten more wickets, but he was not given to bowl there after.However much you try to supress the talents, the real talent surfaces. You cannot go against the nature.Kulatunga is an undisputed alrounder. (0)
Thanks guys,
I am actually forgot to say that my level is beginner/intermediate..so, I guess if there are powerul waves I could die LOL..I was thinking some places in Africa: Gambia and Senegal..what do you think about it?
Once I originally commented I clicked the -Notify me when new feedback are added- checkbox and now each time a remark is added I get four emails with the same comment. Is there any manner you may remove me from that service? Thanks!
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Hahaha, maybe i should dress up like Lady Gaga and go surfing like that to get more “like”s! But until then, i need people like you who help me spread the word. Tell your friends about it7 post it on facebook, or what ever. It is you who can help me…
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Thanks for your feedback. No, so far i don’t have a newsletter. Just subscribe to me on facebook( http://www.facebook.com/thefreesurfer ) and you’ll be up to date
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Hey Pablo
Senegal is the bomb!!!! Still unknown and few people surfing here. I have been coming here since 2006 and living here since 2009. Running a surf camp on NGor Island. Visit my homepage for more info or write me a mail.
Super consistent waves and many different spots, sure worth a visit, if you like uncrowed waves and will be sure to surf every day:-)
All the best from Senegal,
Jesper
stumbled around your website. Nice to see that you’re fine and enjoying surf & life.
I’ve also some small websites with lots of surfpix and videos. Check them out: http://www.lineup-shots.com/ http://www.lineup-shots.de/
Hey Patritsche,
i haven’t heard from you in…how long? 6 years? 7 years! We should find some time and go surf together again. Maybe later this year in Landoland!
It is nice to read something so nice about my country from a visitor. You are right, there are millions of things you still haven’t seen…hopefully, you will make it back soon.
Glad you enjoy our shores and waves. An update – since the passing of our new Surfing Decree, no-one can “own” a wave any more – so anyone can now surf the great breaks at places like Tavarua!
Hey Pascal
Thanks for some great days in Senegal.
Was great to host you here in the surf camp and here about all you travels around the world. Nice article with loads of good information and beautiful photos.
Thanks again..
All the best from everyone in surf camp,
Mia, Soraya and Jesper
Dug the article Pascal! Plenty of info and a fresh perspective on surf travel that’s not only concerned with the waves but life on shore as well. Keep free surfing mate and hang out some time in the future.
Hey, Pascal! I’ve just seen your video application for Jauntaroo and figured I’d take a look at your site. I’m currently living in Switzerland and, yes, there definitely aren’t many beaches here! haha
I have looked at your website a few times throughout the last year and like all the information on it. I began surfing two years ago and have been trying to travel to different parts of the world to do so. I am thinking of going to Ecuador in December and am about to book my flight. I read your info on Ecuador and it was very helpful. Since I am traveling solo, would you think Montanita would be the bets place to surf and have fun? Are you still surfing in Europe or have you moved onto another part of the world?
Kelly
Hey Kelly,
Montanita in December is definitely a good option to have fun, surf and meet a lot of people. But it’s going to be packed that time of the year. How ever go there, party and figure out what to do. It is still easy to get away from the crowds in Ecuador, and Montanita is a good starting point.
And yes, i’m still surfing in europe. Have a look on my facebook page https://www.facebook.com/thefreesurfercom
to see what im up to
Have fun…
I just booked my flight to ecuador for dec 18 to the 14 of jan I am traveling alone but will be surfing and learning spanish. If you would like someone to surf with let me know.
Cory
It’s truly a wonderful and helpful piece of information. I am happy that you simply shared this useful information with us. Please keep us up to date such as this. Thank you for sharing.
I’m interested in Ayampe. What do you mean my a cheap basic Cabana? I’m looking for a cheap place to stay. I place to cook my food, possibly a hammock to lounge in. I’d like to rent a board, and have plenty of room on the surf to practice (not crowded). How often is the bus to Montanita?
It would be better to rent a board in Montanita, as you’ve got much more to choose from than in Ayampe. I don’t know how often the busses run, but there are quiet a few every day, and it’s only 30 minutes or so.
About the cabanas, the one i had, had no kitchen, but I’m sure you can find one where you can cook your own food. Just walk around and ask the local people if they got something for rent, and you’ll find one. Ayampe is really small and friendly.
Thanks! I’m in the process of planning a trip. Quito-Bannos-Montanita. I only have 13 days total. Hopefully I can get at least a week on the coast. I feel more than a couple days in Montanita might be over kill. I’d like to chill out in a less populated costal town for a bit. Any general travel/transportation advice?
Hi Pascal.
Really enjoy your blog and videos.
I have time off in mid November and looking into Monanita for a few days.
Reading mixed reviews about the surf in November. I am only an intermediate surfer looking for head high or overhead surf. I don’t like fighting for waves so usually like to travel off season. I’ve been going to Costa Rica every year (not planned. Just happened with friends going), live the waves there, but just need a change from CR.
Any advice you can give me would be great.
Is it worth it to pack my wetsuit to go to Monanita in November and deal with cloudy days and onshore winds or should I just fly to Costa Rica again?
Thanks,
Tina
Hey Tina,
It’s the Humbold stream bringing cold water, but it flows away from the coast in north Peru. Sometimes the water in the really south of Ecuador is a bit fresh, but up in Montanita you’re fine. Well, with the water temperature. Montanita is great for party, but it can get crowded in the water. But there are always some good peaks along the beach, where so surf relatively alone. Or you go a few villages south (or north) and surf by your self.
If you bring your wetsuit, a bit of time, and the energy to travel around a bit, you’ll get amazing waves in the south of Ecuador and the north of Peru, and there are a lot of buses going back and forth, it’s easy to travel there.
It’s cheaper than Costa Rica, and something different. Plus, there are a lot of amazing waves, a lot of uncrowded waves, and both, perfect lefts and rights. So i would highly recommend to go there for a change.
If you decide to go, send me a PM and i’ll give you some more infos that could be helpful.
Have fun planing and mindsurfing…
Hey I’m planning a trip for the first two weeks of March. Thinking about hitting a bunch of different waves but mainly splitting time between montanita and Ayampe. I would also like to check out all of those point breaks in the Salinas-Playas area. What can I expect as far as waves in March? Is it hit or miss or is there a little something to ride everyday?
Hey Jon,
Salinas is really close from Montanita. If you’ve got a car, you can drive down to surf and go back to Montanita again, no big deal, and it if pretty consistent around there.
If you’re going down to Playas, there are a couple of different waves, and one of them is almost always working (and it is possible to stay right there). But those waves are generally better with south swell, what can happen during March, but you will have more north swells. Keep an eye on the swell direction and go down there when it looks promising.
Have fun, it should be a goo time to go. Main season is over, less people cheaper hotels…
I’m stoked. Thanks Pascal. As of right now I’m trying to divide my 2 weeks and check out as many good surf spots and nice places as possible. I’m thinking of doing 4 days in Montanita, 2 days near Rio Chico, a few days in Ayampe and then a few days near by San Mateo. After that I will go back down south to Playas and Salinas. Do you have any other recommendations? Thank you Pascal! I appreciate it.
Wow, this is the most detailed, interesting and honest report/information about india and their surf spots I have found on the whole Internet. I really enjoyed reading it and I now have an idea about it!! Chapeau! You are doing great, Pascal, fully in your dharma (-: Besos
Great reflection on the reality of central american poverty and often overpriced surf tourism, heading to nicaragua next week for 3 weeks (no car) looking at popoyo, gigante, isla ometepe and maderas. Which beach is best to stay at to get to playgrounds? Cheers Phil
Thanks Phil
If you want to surf Playgrounds, you can stay in the expensive resort right next to it, or take a boat from El Astillero. You’ll fins a cheap place to stay in El Astillero, and the beachbreak is great fun. Plus, you can walt to Lances Left on the bigger days. Taking a boat to Playgrounds it pricy, but well worth it, if there is absolutely no wind. I loved it! But it is much more wind affected than all the other places, from here to Costa Rica!
You can also stay in Guasacate, surf there or walk to Popoyo, and share with a few people a surf shuttle to El Astillero to go to Playgrounds.
How ever, enjoy your time…
Thanks for the article! I’m gonna go to India in February and March and I’ll check out the south for some waves. Keep up what you’re doing, it’s an inspiration for others!
Do you have any advice for buying a Surfboard? We ‘re currently in Baños and our next Destination will be the coast… maybe starting in Manta and heading down the whole coast until Chicama, Peru. We definitely want to buy boards because we will be at least around 6 Weeks surfing. I could Imagine Montanita might not be the best Option!?
Montanita is definitely the easiest place to buy boards. Most surfshops and a lot of people coming through, who might want to sell a board before flying out, or heading toward the Andes.
If you want to buy new and super nice boards, the south, around Playas and Montanita, would be the best place to buy a Balsa wood board, something you would want to keep for ever! If it is only about surfing it for a few weeks and selling again, Montanita for sure. Further up north would be more difficult, but maybe you find something in Manta or Canoa.
Its usually best to have both, Cordobas and US$. US$ are accepted pretty much everywhere, but to probable get the small change in Cordobas. Nothing to worry about. Just use them to buy another coffee before leaving the country.
Danke Markus,
Jeh nach dem wo man in seinem Leben steht, sind die Geschichten entweder etwas, von dem wir hoffen das es noch vor uns liegt, oder eine Erinnerung daran, wie es damals war. Auf unsere ganz persönliche Weise.
Aber mein ganz persönliches “Abenteuer Schweiz” ist auch schon bald vorerst mal wieder zu Ende…
Pascal, thanks for telling your personal truth on the surf destination! !
I am an intermediate surfer, who likes to stay in the “comfort Zone” but wants to get as much surf as possible travelling alone from from mid september on till february.
It is so hard to Plan a Trip when all the blogs and guides are written by semi-pros or Surf Camps.
Do you have an advice on which route i can catch intermediate waves (even when it’s mostly off seasons f.e. in Pamama) . Just afraid to go to a country where there are mostly expert spots.
Was thinking about to start in Nicaragua ( Now Not any more 😉 ) down south as far i can get.
Awesome! Can I bring my longboard on the train? So I can take train Colombo to a bay then a bay to weligama area (and are the other beach tuk tuk from there?) I only have 2 wks. Thanks!
Should be all right with the board on the train. for sure not the easiest thing in the world, but as they are used to trains with more people than space, one big surfboard won’t make much of a difference.
So I’m planning a backpack south east trip. I have a 9’0 performance longboard. I plan to surf some but also do other activities. Will it be a pain to bring my board? It seems like it would be hard to get one there. Or maybe I could sell it there? Thanks
Of course, it is not easy with such a board. I guess the main problem would be the flights between islands, as the often don’t take the boards, if there is a lot of other luggage! But I would try it anyways. It should be easy to find short boards and shitty longboards for beginners, but if you want a high performance longboards…I don’t think you would what you need.
So I’m gonna be in Maputo for a week. Will have some time to surf during the day. Dont want to drive to far away. Whats the best option for a kooky intermediate surfer?
Hey Clifton,
To be honest, I don’t know hot easy it is to find waves close to Maputo. I’ve heard rumors, that is is possible to take a boat to Inhaca, and that there are some waves. But as far as i know, this is quiet a mission. Would be a hell of a trip, but i don’t thinks it would be quick and easy. If there is swell around, Inhambane is a pretty safe bet, but is a bit of a drive. Im sure there are some waves in the Xai-Xai District, but i don’t know anything about it. If you go and find out, I’m happy to hear your story.
Spain is such a beautiful place! I did not know about surf spots there, but with this information without doubt I’ll add it to my list of places to visit in the world. I love your blog!
Wondering if car rental is worthwhile and if you would need a 4×4 to access the quieter breaks?
boat prices seem worthwhile if it saved you money from renting a car yet you could still get to the less busy waves
Hey Sam,
it depends where you want to go, and if it was raining much. But in many places, you can do it without a rental car, and just take a driver for going from one place to the next. BUT it you’re with a few people to cash in, and just rent on for the whole length of your stay, it would make life more comfortable.
Question, if you’re a solo traveler, what would be the best way to find a group of people who is heading to the mentawais? Any particular forums or places in Indo where people meet up? Maybe somewhere in Padang?
I bought one. Broke in half after 3 months. The damage started with cracks going side ways.
I contacted them and I did get a new sent for free.
Surf it for 4 weeks. The same kind of cracks are starting again. Same spot. Around the middle.inam quite disappointed. False marketing
I bought my first Lib-Tech (ShortRound 5’10”) last year and after 3 weeks of surfing it started to delam and got a lot of pressure dings.
I returned the board and got a new one – anyway, after 7 days surfing the finbox broke + 3 big pressure dings.
So I returned again and got now my thrid one; but unfortunaley the nose has a transport-damage. Really disappointing.
However, I really like the idea of the “technology”, but the marketing is just b'”l*sh’*t.
I would not recommend anybody to get one of these sticks.
Unfortunately, I would not recommend these boards!
Did you contacted libtech directly for warranty or how did you managed it to get a new one returned? Have the same delamination and pressure Ding problems after just 4 weeks in Indonesia with my brand new short round. So frustrating…
Hey Julian,
Naruki in Bali told me, he has seen this many times. These boards probably like tho cold water better?!
Try to get in touch with Libtech through the contact they’ve got online. But this can be frustration too! It’s still a surprisingly small company (what I like), and not many people there do customer service. It took me a while to get to talk to them, and it was a mission get it replaced! I brought it to the distributer in my country to check it out. And a lot of back and forth, before they said my board had some manufactured errors (it also cracked surfing only small waves).
Good luck, and I hope you still like your board and have fun with it?!
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Nice post pascal and something I really agree with myself. It’s nice to know someone’s back story as opposed to just their place of origin. I gives a much better pic.
A better way of phrasing your question to minorities is, “What is your heritage?” or “What ethnicity are you?”. As an Asian-American, born and raised in the States, Asia is as foreign to me as it is to you. It is not a place I’m “from” or identify myself with. I think this is the biggest difference between Americans and Europeans. In the States, you’re an American if you’re born here; whereas in Europe where there is a huge lack of diversity, just because you were born in Germany – it doesn’t make you German. Although, your curiosity is genuine, it comes off as highly ignorant. As an avid traveler, where I am from means my home, cultural roots, a place that has shaped the way I talk, think… My humor. The more you travel, the more the idea of “where are you from” begins to take a less definite answer. It is a conceptual question. How could you possibly insist that someone is from a certain country purely based on the color of their skin? I’ve come to realize this concept is difficult for Europeans to understand but as one traveler to another, you can’t be authentically curious when you already have the answer. Curiosity comes with an open-mind.
Hey Amber, thanks for really takeing your time and to write that reply. BUT it kinda sound like you feel offended. As i said, that’s the last thing i want to do.
“What is your heritage?”… i’ll keep that in mind and try to find out next time how people answer and react to this one. Keep in mind that i’m not a nativ english speaker and never even really studied English and only picked it up from talking to people, musik, breading books and TV.
I like your sentence:”whereas in Europe where there is a huge lack of diversity”! this coming from someone living in such a big country with not even a official language and a huge majority not speaking a second language is kinda funny. I understand something different in the words:” huge lack of diversity”, but maybe I’m just wrong as i come from a Continent smaller than your country, but having more then 50 Countries here. But yes, we probable really lack in diversity, coming from a country of less than 8 million people and four different official languages, not talking about all the people who live here from other countries, the languages they speak and the culture they brought here and keep alive.
Also what you say further down is kinda funny:” I’ve come to realize this concept is difficult for Europeans…” So as you are such a experienced traveler, it looks like you know that all the Europeans are the same?
But this is maybe an US-American thiking (i don’t know, i’ve never been there). I remember reading in a Surfmag from your Countryabout a competition where a Hawaiian won, a American became second and as they called him, a Europen became 3th. He was actually German, but as it looks, or maybe because we lack in diversity;) all Europe is the same, BUT Hawaii, a State of the US is names separate, Aaand, America is a Continent and not a Country, but that is another story.
And sorry for being so annoying, but i don’t really understand what you mean with:” you can’t be authentically curious when you already have the answer”? I am asking because i don’t know the answer? But maybe your german is better than my English and you can explane it to me…
And to end the whole thing, I hope you take the whole thing here with as much humor and a smile in your face as i do 😉
Lot of smarts in that posntig!
the way you express yourself is very clear, i understand it very well. thanks.http://www.msnbrasil.net
Hi! I read your comment on couchsurfing philippines! thanks so much, the info is really helpful!! btw, awesome shots!! i was wondering in which season did you go. Dry season? wet monzon season? How long did you stayed there? Lucky guy!! I hope to find some waves like those!
If you ever come back again to San Sebastian, contact me! surfing y buena onda!
Marta
Hola Marta,
I was there in September for a bit over three weeks and didn’t know that my visa was only valid for 21 days! So don’t forget to take care of this.
nice, what happened with costa rica and nicaragua?
It takes a lot of time to get those pages online and it’s all still new. But im working on it, they’re coming soon…
Where in Indonesia should we go ? I would like some names of beaches or towns. Merci, Heidi. I like your web initiatives. You have a free spirit and a very creative mind. Good luck in all your stuff, Pascal.
Hola Heidi,
if you have a question, better send me a email: pascal@thefreesurfer.com
But you’ve got already a answer in your inbox.
Enjoy Indo
Definitely, what a fantastic site and illuminating posts, I will bookmark your blog.All the Best!
Ciao Pascal I forwarded your site on to some friends tonight who are making a surf trip to El Salvador and wanted some advices. So finally now I took more than a quick glance at your website and paid attention to the words more closely. I enjoy your “thoughts along the way” section most and found the conversation you had with the girl on the “where are you from” page particularly funny, especially the “in Europe where there is a huge lack of diversity” ha ha and… some parts of your response.
But this page on Sri Lanka I really responded to. Sri Lanka was one of the few countries I’ve ever dreamed of visiting but I kind of forgot about it. But the way you speak of it, especially the train rides, I started to ache for it. A real longing. Now I really want to go again. Long ago I bought a guide book to plan a trip there even though I didn’t have a ticket or a plan, I just thought, someday… It’s funny because I had forgotten about this until I read your post. Maybe I’ll start my own blog at some point, if only to remind myself of where I’ve been, where I am, and where I must go…
well done C Bernardus gud comments 1st of all i like to wish all the best to our nataonl team we can do it man we’ll do it this time guys now we have a squad for our T-20 world cup. its a great n balance team. now its not a time to blame or tell anything wrong to anyone coz now we have to encourage the team & every Sri Lankan player. now the job is in their hand, selection commitee kept the faith on Sanath coz they think he will deliver the good in the worls cup. we must encourage him also & our Cricket captan Sanga.Sanga you are doing a great job but i see some mistakes.when you are under pressure you should be calm.when u are batting you handle the pressure very well but when you are on the field you should be calm and not to be pannic. you have lot of expeirience guys you should get the best out of them with their performences n ideas. this is what i think sanga u can do it.again wishing all the best to our team. we can beat them all . (0)
I do accept as true with all of the ideas you have introduced on your post. They are very convincing and can certainly work. Nonetheless, the posts are too short for starters. Could you please extend them a bit from subsequent time? Thanks for the post.
Love this concept! So inspirational that you figured out way to continue your surf travels for over 7 years. I’m working on it as I like to keep surfing … and try many other things to check off on my bucket list. Cheers!
I have recently started a blog, the information you offer on this website has helped me greatly. Thanks for all of your time & work. “The more sand that has escaped from the hourglass of our life, the clearer we should see through it.” by Jean Paul.
Jenny Sosa – Hi, it so nice to see the beautiful faces of my peolpe in Honduras, unfortunately i don’t get to visit my original home land very often at all You being there is a sweet reminder of God’s answered prayers and a reminder how he cares for ALL his peolpe, I know the peolpe in Honduras are very thankful for the little things as well as very giving of the little that they have, must of my family still there lives in El Paraiso, you can get some great coffee there!Thank you for bringing joy to a peolpe who very few know are there, but our God knows and he cares and loves them! Que la pasen muy bien.Jenny.
Now, Jeevantha Kulatunga the bowler. 4 Wickets in 25 overs , low E/R of 2.6 , 5 maedins, in yesterday (22/4/2010) Wayamba Bas. North Inter Prov match. All these while Kulatunga had been sidelined in the bowling dept. Muba had no option but to give Kulatunga bowling in this match since he has run out of bowlers because regular bowlers like Wela, Ajantha are out at T20 WC. Decision to giving some overs for a player to bowl is in the captains hands. While Muba as the captain was bowling more overs than any player in all the matches putting the teams winning the matches at risk even when the regular bowlers are present in numbers, Kulatunga despite his good bowling abilities, was never considered for a fair bowling opportunity. One eg, is in 2009 Prov, T20 final, when the opening pair was hammering the regular bowlers , Kulatunga was given one over and he broke the partnership taking a catch from his own bowling and if the couple of catches were not dropped he would have gotten more wickets, but he was not given to bowl there after.However much you try to supress the talents, the real talent surfaces. You cannot go against the nature.Kulatunga is an undisputed alrounder. (0)
Thanks guys,
I am actually forgot to say that my level is beginner/intermediate..so, I guess if there are powerul waves I could die LOL..I was thinking some places in Africa: Gambia and Senegal..what do you think about it?
Hey Pablo, I haven’t been there, not yet. But i heard some good stories about Senegal and West Africa in general. Give it a go and let us know.
No way thank you for all your info
Thanks for helping out, great information.
Once I originally commented I clicked the -Notify me when new feedback are added- checkbox and now each time a remark is added I get four emails with the same comment. Is there any manner you may remove me from that service? Thanks!
I would if there would be somethinf like a “notify button” !
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Hahaha, maybe i should dress up like Lady Gaga and go surfing like that to get more “like”s! But until then, i need people like you who help me spread the word. Tell your friends about it7 post it on facebook, or what ever. It is you who can help me…
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Thanks for your feedback. No, so far i don’t have a newsletter. Just subscribe to me on facebook( http://www.facebook.com/thefreesurfer ) and you’ll be up to date
I delight in, lead to I discovered just what I was looking for. You have ended my 4 day lengthy hunt! God Bless you man. Have a nice day. Bye
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Some genuinely wonderful posts on this site, thank you for contribution. “Give me the splendid silent sun with all his beams full-dazzling.” by Walt Whitman.
I like reading blogs written by people who really know what they are writing about
Thanks for the blog.Thanks Again. Fantastic.
Hey Pablo
Senegal is the bomb!!!! Still unknown and few people surfing here. I have been coming here since 2006 and living here since 2009. Running a surf camp on NGor Island. Visit my homepage for more info or write me a mail.
Super consistent waves and many different spots, sure worth a visit, if you like uncrowed waves and will be sure to surf every day:-)
All the best from Senegal,
Jesper
Hey Passi,
stumbled around your website. Nice to see that you’re fine and enjoying surf & life.
I’ve also some small websites with lots of surfpix and videos. Check them out:
http://www.lineup-shots.com/
http://www.lineup-shots.de/
Cheers,
Patrice
Hey Patritsche,
i haven’t heard from you in…how long? 6 years? 7 years! We should find some time and go surf together again. Maybe later this year in Landoland!
I don’t know if I will get a visa for this beautiful Landoland. But maybe somewhere close.
Any news from Ira or somebody else ?
Yeeeeyyy:) reuniun my braddahs:) wohnst noch im norden patriceee? Grüsse aus HH…und bald wieder aus Hawaii;)
Hey Folks!
Just dropping in here!
Amazing introduction, will keep this one tracked!
Greetings to all! Especially the ones from landoland/france!
Brgds
Lorenz
What about Karnival in Cologne in 2 weeks. I will be there anyway…
Sounds like fun, but i’ll still be surfing in Senegal
Jo ich bin auch raus…bin in 2 wochen schon wieder richtung hawaii unterwegs:) wann bist ma wida inna schweiz pascal?? @patrice: vogel!! 😀
ich bin März & April in der Schweiz dieses Frühjahr
It is nice to read something so nice about my country from a visitor. You are right, there are millions of things you still haven’t seen…hopefully, you will make it back soon.
Hey Free Surfer
Glad you enjoy our shores and waves. An update – since the passing of our new Surfing Decree, no-one can “own” a wave any more – so anyone can now surf the great breaks at places like Tavarua!
Thanks a lot for that update. I’m sure everyone going over to your little paradise called Fiji is happy to hear that.
Hey Pascal
Thanks for some great days in Senegal.
Was great to host you here in the surf camp and here about all you travels around the world. Nice article with loads of good information and beautiful photos.
Thanks again..
All the best from everyone in surf camp,
Mia, Soraya and Jesper
Dug the article Pascal! Plenty of info and a fresh perspective on surf travel that’s not only concerned with the waves but life on shore as well. Keep free surfing mate and hang out some time in the future.
Great photos:-)
aloha,
mahalo, for sharing another culture with the rest of human race.
a hui ho,
kay
Hey, Pascal! I’ve just seen your video application for Jauntaroo and figured I’d take a look at your site. I’m currently living in Switzerland and, yes, there definitely aren’t many beaches here! haha
I have looked at your website a few times throughout the last year and like all the information on it. I began surfing two years ago and have been trying to travel to different parts of the world to do so. I am thinking of going to Ecuador in December and am about to book my flight. I read your info on Ecuador and it was very helpful. Since I am traveling solo, would you think Montanita would be the bets place to surf and have fun? Are you still surfing in Europe or have you moved onto another part of the world?
Kelly
Hey Kelly,
Montanita in December is definitely a good option to have fun, surf and meet a lot of people. But it’s going to be packed that time of the year. How ever go there, party and figure out what to do. It is still easy to get away from the crowds in Ecuador, and Montanita is a good starting point.
And yes, i’m still surfing in europe. Have a look on my facebook page
https://www.facebook.com/thefreesurfercom
to see what im up to
Have fun…
Hi Kelly
I just booked my flight to ecuador for dec 18 to the 14 of jan I am traveling alone but will be surfing and learning spanish. If you would like someone to surf with let me know.
Cory
It’s truly a wonderful and helpful piece of information. I am happy that you simply shared this useful information with us. Please keep us up to date such as this. Thank you for sharing.
I’m interested in Ayampe. What do you mean my a cheap basic Cabana? I’m looking for a cheap place to stay. I place to cook my food, possibly a hammock to lounge in. I’d like to rent a board, and have plenty of room on the surf to practice (not crowded). How often is the bus to Montanita?
Any advice would be great!
It would be better to rent a board in Montanita, as you’ve got much more to choose from than in Ayampe. I don’t know how often the busses run, but there are quiet a few every day, and it’s only 30 minutes or so.
About the cabanas, the one i had, had no kitchen, but I’m sure you can find one where you can cook your own food. Just walk around and ask the local people if they got something for rent, and you’ll find one. Ayampe is really small and friendly.
Thanks! I’m in the process of planning a trip. Quito-Bannos-Montanita. I only have 13 days total. Hopefully I can get at least a week on the coast. I feel more than a couple days in Montanita might be over kill. I’d like to chill out in a less populated costal town for a bit. Any general travel/transportation advice?
Hi Pascal.
Really enjoy your blog and videos.
I have time off in mid November and looking into Monanita for a few days.
Reading mixed reviews about the surf in November. I am only an intermediate surfer looking for head high or overhead surf. I don’t like fighting for waves so usually like to travel off season. I’ve been going to Costa Rica every year (not planned. Just happened with friends going), live the waves there, but just need a change from CR.
Any advice you can give me would be great.
Is it worth it to pack my wetsuit to go to Monanita in November and deal with cloudy days and onshore winds or should I just fly to Costa Rica again?
Thanks,
Tina
Hey Tina,
It’s the Humbold stream bringing cold water, but it flows away from the coast in north Peru. Sometimes the water in the really south of Ecuador is a bit fresh, but up in Montanita you’re fine. Well, with the water temperature. Montanita is great for party, but it can get crowded in the water. But there are always some good peaks along the beach, where so surf relatively alone. Or you go a few villages south (or north) and surf by your self.
If you bring your wetsuit, a bit of time, and the energy to travel around a bit, you’ll get amazing waves in the south of Ecuador and the north of Peru, and there are a lot of buses going back and forth, it’s easy to travel there.
It’s cheaper than Costa Rica, and something different. Plus, there are a lot of amazing waves, a lot of uncrowded waves, and both, perfect lefts and rights. So i would highly recommend to go there for a change.
If you decide to go, send me a PM and i’ll give you some more infos that could be helpful.
Have fun planing and mindsurfing…
Hello
You have done really wonderful job, your spectacles had taken rots of real India, Best wishes for your feature clicks.
Thanks
Thanks for blowing it all up even more…pinche gringo! Peple like you that crowd places.
Hahaha, Devin! you’re funny!
Hey I’m planning a trip for the first two weeks of March. Thinking about hitting a bunch of different waves but mainly splitting time between montanita and Ayampe. I would also like to check out all of those point breaks in the Salinas-Playas area. What can I expect as far as waves in March? Is it hit or miss or is there a little something to ride everyday?
Thanks,
Jon
Hey Jon,
Salinas is really close from Montanita. If you’ve got a car, you can drive down to surf and go back to Montanita again, no big deal, and it if pretty consistent around there.
If you’re going down to Playas, there are a couple of different waves, and one of them is almost always working (and it is possible to stay right there). But those waves are generally better with south swell, what can happen during March, but you will have more north swells. Keep an eye on the swell direction and go down there when it looks promising.
Have fun, it should be a goo time to go. Main season is over, less people cheaper hotels…
I’m stoked. Thanks Pascal. As of right now I’m trying to divide my 2 weeks and check out as many good surf spots and nice places as possible. I’m thinking of doing 4 days in Montanita, 2 days near Rio Chico, a few days in Ayampe and then a few days near by San Mateo. After that I will go back down south to Playas and Salinas. Do you have any other recommendations? Thank you Pascal! I appreciate it.
Rad. Well written. Thanks!
Very good info. Lucky me I discovered your site by chance (stumbleupon).
I’ve saved as a favorite for later!
Wow, this is the most detailed, interesting and honest report/information about india and their surf spots I have found on the whole Internet. I really enjoyed reading it and I now have an idea about it!! Chapeau! You are doing great, Pascal, fully in your dharma (-: Besos
Great reflection on the reality of central american poverty and often overpriced surf tourism, heading to nicaragua next week for 3 weeks (no car) looking at popoyo, gigante, isla ometepe and maderas. Which beach is best to stay at to get to playgrounds? Cheers Phil
Thanks Phil
If you want to surf Playgrounds, you can stay in the expensive resort right next to it, or take a boat from El Astillero. You’ll fins a cheap place to stay in El Astillero, and the beachbreak is great fun. Plus, you can walt to Lances Left on the bigger days. Taking a boat to Playgrounds it pricy, but well worth it, if there is absolutely no wind. I loved it! But it is much more wind affected than all the other places, from here to Costa Rica!
You can also stay in Guasacate, surf there or walk to Popoyo, and share with a few people a surf shuttle to El Astillero to go to Playgrounds.
How ever, enjoy your time…
Thanks for the article! I’m gonna go to India in February and March and I’ll check out the south for some waves. Keep up what you’re doing, it’s an inspiration for others!
Do you have any advice for buying a Surfboard? We ‘re currently in Baños and our next Destination will be the coast… maybe starting in Manta and heading down the whole coast until Chicama, Peru. We definitely want to buy boards because we will be at least around 6 Weeks surfing. I could Imagine Montanita might not be the best Option!?
Montanita is definitely the easiest place to buy boards. Most surfshops and a lot of people coming through, who might want to sell a board before flying out, or heading toward the Andes.
If you want to buy new and super nice boards, the south, around Playas and Montanita, would be the best place to buy a Balsa wood board, something you would want to keep for ever! If it is only about surfing it for a few weeks and selling again, Montanita for sure. Further up north would be more difficult, but maybe you find something in Manta or Canoa.
What money is used in Playa Gigante Pascal? Is it best to have US dollars on you?
Its usually best to have both, Cordobas and US$. US$ are accepted pretty much everywhere, but to probable get the small change in Cordobas. Nothing to worry about. Just use them to buy another coffee before leaving the country.
Hey Pascal,
ich habe das erste Buch bereits gelesen und bin gerade am Zweiten. Es ist auf jeden Fall sehr zu empfehlen und verspricht absolute Kurzweile!
Es sind wirklich die Geschichten und Erlebnisse drin, die doch ein Jeder unserer Gattung gerne erleben würde, erlebt hat oder einfach gerne liest.
Tolles Interview!
Gruß, Markus
Danke Markus,
Jeh nach dem wo man in seinem Leben steht, sind die Geschichten entweder etwas, von dem wir hoffen das es noch vor uns liegt, oder eine Erinnerung daran, wie es damals war. Auf unsere ganz persönliche Weise.
Aber mein ganz persönliches “Abenteuer Schweiz” ist auch schon bald vorerst mal wieder zu Ende…
Pascal, thanks for telling your personal truth on the surf destination! !
I am an intermediate surfer, who likes to stay in the “comfort Zone” but wants to get as much surf as possible travelling alone from from mid september on till february.
It is so hard to Plan a Trip when all the blogs and guides are written by semi-pros or Surf Camps.
Do you have an advice on which route i can catch intermediate waves (even when it’s mostly off seasons f.e. in Pamama) . Just afraid to go to a country where there are mostly expert spots.
Was thinking about to start in Nicaragua ( Now Not any more 😉 ) down south as far i can get.
Awesome! Can I bring my longboard on the train? So I can take train Colombo to a bay then a bay to weligama area (and are the other beach tuk tuk from there?) I only have 2 wks. Thanks!
Should be all right with the board on the train. for sure not the easiest thing in the world, but as they are used to trains with more people than space, one big surfboard won’t make much of a difference.
So I’m planning a backpack south east trip. I have a 9’0 performance longboard. I plan to surf some but also do other activities. Will it be a pain to bring my board? It seems like it would be hard to get one there. Or maybe I could sell it there? Thanks
Of course, it is not easy with such a board. I guess the main problem would be the flights between islands, as the often don’t take the boards, if there is a lot of other luggage! But I would try it anyways. It should be easy to find short boards and shitty longboards for beginners, but if you want a high performance longboards…I don’t think you would what you need.
So I’m gonna be in Maputo for a week. Will have some time to surf during the day. Dont want to drive to far away. Whats the best option for a kooky intermediate surfer?
Hey Clifton,
To be honest, I don’t know hot easy it is to find waves close to Maputo. I’ve heard rumors, that is is possible to take a boat to Inhaca, and that there are some waves. But as far as i know, this is quiet a mission. Would be a hell of a trip, but i don’t thinks it would be quick and easy. If there is swell around, Inhambane is a pretty safe bet, but is a bit of a drive. Im sure there are some waves in the Xai-Xai District, but i don’t know anything about it. If you go and find out, I’m happy to hear your story.
Spain is such a beautiful place! I did not know about surf spots there, but with this information without doubt I’ll add it to my list of places to visit in the world. I love your blog!
woo thats good
Wondering if car rental is worthwhile and if you would need a 4×4 to access the quieter breaks?
boat prices seem worthwhile if it saved you money from renting a car yet you could still get to the less busy waves
thanks for the input
Hey Sam,
it depends where you want to go, and if it was raining much. But in many places, you can do it without a rental car, and just take a driver for going from one place to the next. BUT it you’re with a few people to cash in, and just rent on for the whole length of your stay, it would make life more comfortable.
Very helpful review, thanks heaps!
tavola rotta oggi con onde mediterraneo….
3 ft…
Question, if you’re a solo traveler, what would be the best way to find a group of people who is heading to the mentawais? Any particular forums or places in Indo where people meet up? Maybe somewhere in Padang?
Try this Facebook group:
https://web.facebook.com/groups/892920784191139/
I bought one. Broke in half after 3 months. The damage started with cracks going side ways.
I contacted them and I did get a new sent for free.
Surf it for 4 weeks. The same kind of cracks are starting again. Same spot. Around the middle.inam quite disappointed. False marketing
Hey Sam,
I had to update the post, as things changed after it was online…
I feel with you ;(
Pingback: One board quiver - Thefreesurfer.com and surfboard monogamy
I bought my first Lib-Tech (ShortRound 5’10”) last year and after 3 weeks of surfing it started to delam and got a lot of pressure dings.
I returned the board and got a new one – anyway, after 7 days surfing the finbox broke + 3 big pressure dings.
So I returned again and got now my thrid one; but unfortunaley the nose has a transport-damage. Really disappointing.
However, I really like the idea of the “technology”, but the marketing is just b'”l*sh’*t.
I would not recommend anybody to get one of these sticks.
Unfortunately, I would not recommend these boards!
Did you contacted libtech directly for warranty or how did you managed it to get a new one returned? Have the same delamination and pressure Ding problems after just 4 weeks in Indonesia with my brand new short round. So frustrating…
Hey Julian,
Naruki in Bali told me, he has seen this many times. These boards probably like tho cold water better?!
Try to get in touch with Libtech through the contact they’ve got online. But this can be frustration too! It’s still a surprisingly small company (what I like), and not many people there do customer service. It took me a while to get to talk to them, and it was a mission get it replaced! I brought it to the distributer in my country to check it out. And a lot of back and forth, before they said my board had some manufactured errors (it also cracked surfing only small waves).
Good luck, and I hope you still like your board and have fun with it?!
Pingback: Is The Search still alive? Über das Suchen und Finden von Surfspots
Heading to Montañita in a week, just wondering how hard it is to visit different breaks without a car, any advice would be appreciated.