If you ask any European what comes to mind when they hear about the Island of Fuerteventura, you’re sure to hear at least someone saying “insane amounts of tourism”. And while that is true for some parts of this desert gem, there are parts of Fuerteventura that are still considered local secrets, where the waves are unbeatable and summer lasts twelve months a year. In this guide I’ll explore where to escape the crowds and surf like a local.
There is truly no place like it.
The island, one of the Canary Islands off the northwest coast of Africa, was colonized by Spanish troops in the 15th century, and has been under Spanish rule since. However, with its preserved pre-colonial capital Betancuria still standing proudly between the mountains of the islands middle part, and the small fishing villages where local bars offer their mouth-watering café bon-bon (espresso, combined with condensed milk and Liquor 43, and yes, it’s as good as it sounds), Fuerteventura retains its local, ancient identity. There is truly no place like it.
But the travelers who avoid the island due to its reputation as being overly touristy might be onto something. If you follow the advice of guidebooks or ill-informed online guides, you might find yourself walking amongst Irish pubs and German yoga retreats, along the streets of the tourist-heavy Corralejo, or the (despite its name) crazy haze of Costa Calma in the south.
So where should the surf-searching, local-loving traveler go, then? The answer to that is, up north!
El Cotillo
Just outside of town
This little fishing town is located on the north-west coast of the island, where the sun dips low into the horizon each night, and where the small blue and white stone buildings create a patchwork of colors throughout the city.
The picturesque views would remind a visitor of Chefchaouen in Morocco, or the smaller islands of Greece, and combined with the near-perfect waves, El Cotillo is paradise for the surfer seeking a calm get away.
In the south part of town, just off the mountain cliffs, one finds the (dare I say?) best waves of the island. Playa del Castillo (or just El Cotillo Norte, if you’re a cool local) offers A-frames pretty much all year round, with beginner-friendly swells during summertime, and clean L-, as well as R-waves for the intermediates and above during autumn and winter. Playa de Castillo offers challenging waves regardless of tide or season, but preferably, catch this long, sandy beach during eastern and northeastern winds, for the cleanest brakes. A good rule of thumb to follow is that the closer you are to the city of El Cotillo, the less tiring the waves will be, and further south, away from the city, just that more challenging. But don’t be discouraged – the soft sandbank of the ocean floor, together with a pretty friendly line-up, makes El Cotillo a great place to practice those bigger waves that you’ve been eyeing up!
Where to Stay
As for where to stay, El Cotillo is a great place to use as the base for your adventures around the island. The tempo is slow, the vibe is relaxed and the tapas are tasty! If you’re looking to really shape up those skills, the newly reopened Surf & Yoga Fuerteventura is a great choice. Located just outside of town, they organize yoga and surf-retreats for all levels, with a stunning villa and great vegan and sugar free food. Looking for something more easygoing? FreshSurf Surfhouse offer apartments for rent in the city, as well as surf lessons for those interested.
There is also an abundance of apartments and rooms for rent on AirBnB and Booking.com, where the budget traveler might find something to their liking. For board- and wetsuit rental, there’s no place better equipped, informed, and budget-friendly than Shock Wave Surf, where you’ll find everything you might need, including bikes for those looking to wheel around the area.
Another benefit of staying in El Cotillo – apart from the waves, the people, the views… you get it – is that it’s fairly easy to reach from wherever on the island. If you arrive by plane, you’ll begin your journey in El Matorral, on the eastern part of the island. From there, you can either rent a car at one of the many car rental agencies located directly at the airport’s arrivals hall, and drive along the FV-1 and FV-10, until you reach El Cotillo, a trip that takes approximately 45 minutes.
If you arrive by plane, you'll begin your journey in El Mattoral
Or, if you’re looking to skip the extra expenses of a car rental, you can exit the airport and hop on bus number 03, heading for Puerto del Rosario, where you switch to bus 7, heading for El Cotillo. But, it isn’t as easy as it sounds.
Usually, the bus won’t follow any sort of timetable, and will show up whenever the driver feels like it, or, worst case scenario, not at all. Matching the first bus leaving the airport shouldn’t be a problem, however, timing the switch in Puerto del Rosario could be, since that bus is only supposed to leave every two hours or so. That’s not to say that it’s impossible to travel the island by bus, it just might be for those with extra time (and patience).
Why El Cotillo? Waves suited for all levels, perfect surfing infrastructure, friendly line-up and beautiful views.
Majanicho
About half an hour northeast of El Cotillo, you’ll find the local surf hub of Majanicho. It’s rougher and tougher, but no less a must-visit for those who’re up for the challenge. “Maja” (pronounced “Macha”) is as local as it gets, and here you’ll be well off the beaten track, far away from the crowded surf schools. The famous El Hierro-beach of Majanicho is divided into two, with the right side, known locally as “The Bubble” due to the swell’s usual resemblance of – you guessed it – a bubble, being the epicenter of winter surf on the island, where the A-peaks are frequent and the swell is pretty consistent. Here, you’ll catch the fast and hollow rights, especially in NW and W winds, when the waves break closer to shore. You’ll enter the shore from the right hand side, and you’ll paddle out along the rocks. Warm up is key – this can be a bit of a shoulder burner!
A couple of minutes east of The Bubble is Hierro Left, or just El Hierro. A bit calmer than its twin brake, but no less exciting. These left-handers are strong, but manageable, and are a good start for the intermediate – or very brave – beginner. The ground is made up mostly of volcanic rocks, and the beach is mostly stones and pebbles, so make sure you’re aware of the break pattern and paddling channels before jumping in, to avoid any misfortunate situations. On days that the wind blows from the south, El Hierro is the perfect spot, where the wave grows longer and more powerful.
A bit calmer than its twin brake, but no less exciting
Because of these long, hollow waves and perfect A-shapes, you’ll most likely line-up with the island’s local surf talent on the bigger days. As always, be mindful and respectful towards the locals, since this is their home, after all.
Staying Majanicho
Whilst the waves in Majanicho are the top-choice for intermediate and experienced surfers, it can be a bit tricky to find somewhere to stay that’s close to the shore. If you have rented a car (or fancy yourself a bit of hitchhiking), you can easily stay in nearby El Cotillo, where there are multiple great options for accommodation, as well as in the tiny village of Lajares, a ten minute drive from Maja (more on the can’t-miss Lajares later). If you’re keen on a remote trip, staying in Majanicho works just as fine; there are some cute cottages and villas lining up along the circular roads that run throughout this quaint little village, most of which are bookable through Holidayhomes, as well as AirBnB and Booking.com.
Getting to and from Majanicho is, unsurprisingly maybe, no biggie with a car, but quite the challenge without one. If you’re driving, simply head for Lajares (FV-1 from the airport, and then follow the road signs), turn right just outside the village and head down Cl. Majanicho, and you’ll be there in no time. There is no official bus heading up to Majanicho, so your best bet will be to catch bus number number 8 to Lajares, and from there you’ll have to either hitchhike (yes, I promise you, it works) or call for a taxi to take you the last 7 kilometers to Majanicho. Unless you’re up for an hour and a half of hiking in the desert, that is. However, the easier compromise is to open your wallet and splurge on a shuttle bus from the airport. Some of the cheaper ones will stop at every little village on the northern part of the island, but will bring you directly to your hotel or villa, without requiring any desert-hiking on your part.
Why Majanicho? Consistent, challenging waves, in a serene, local environment.
Playa de la Mujer
No wind? No worry! On “Fuerte”, days without any wind are very, very rare, but it happens that the wind stills also on this windswept island. Then, most tourists are stranded, not knowing where to go for their daily surf-fix. But not you! You’ll be heading to the western part of the island, to Playa de la Mujer, a tiny shore about 45 minutes south of El Cotillo. Here, the surrounding rocks create a little pocket of swell that produces beach-breaking waves even during calmer days. Catch this secluded spot during rising and falling tide for perfect conditions, as well as an often-times near empty lineup. Usually, the waves are beginner friendly, but on a good day where the winds come directly east or slightly north-east, you’ll catch some shoulder-, or even head-high left and right-handers. If Majanicho was a tad too much – don’t worry, we’ve all been there – then Playa de la Mujer should be more your thing, with a sandy ocean floor and a pretty nice channel for paddling, closer to the natural stone pier on the far right side of the beach
Playa de la Mujer Accommodations
As Playa de la Mujer is as remote as it gets, the closest options for a night’s sleep will be either in El Cotillo, or La Oliva, located about twenty minutes in-land from the beach. La Oliva is quaint, picturesque, and very “Fuerteventurian”, with aloe vera plantations surrounding the old churches and even older volcanoes that are shadowing the village. La Oliva Inn is a charming and welcoming guest house for those looking for a budget-friendly, yet incredibly beautiful, alternative.
Getting There
The beach itself can be a bit difficult to find, but follow your GPS through the little village of Tindaya, and continue west, on a small dirt road (careful with those rented cars, guys!) towards Playa de Tebeto. Continue south along the coast for about five minutes, and you’ll arrive at a little gravel platform just above the beach, where you can park your car. As for the bus… well. Bus number 8 can take you from El Cotillo to La Olivia, but any closer might be a mission impossible. However, usually, there are happy surfers all over the island who’re willing to take you where you need to go if asked kindly, so shape up those people-skills and ask around!
There are no surf-rental agencies, nor grocery stores nearby, so make sure to bring everything you might need before going. During low-tide, some natural pools and lagoons will appear, perfect for an adventurous swim (and/or for your Instagram feed). This place embodies the wild, secret, and unexplored side of Fuerteventura, and is as much a nature experience as it is a perfect, hidden surf-gem.
Why Playa de la Mujer? Surf-safe, free of crowds, and as close to the natural elements as you’ll ever come.
Lajares
Located about ten minutes east from the Cotillo-coast, with Volcano Calderón staggering in the periphery, is the sleepy little village of Lajares. Here, artists and hippie folks gather with locals for a coffee on the town square, where the artisan crafts-market is being held every Saturday, with live music and an array of jewelry, home decor and clothing is being sold by local artists. Lajares is also home to many of the local young surfers, attracted by the village’s calm, cool, aura, and is the host of surfcafés such as Amiga Mia Café, and the best local music shows, found at Canela Café during their weekly jam every wednesday night. Take my word for it: anyone who’s anyone is there.
Road Trip to Betancuria
The old capital of Betancuria, located on the middle of the island, remains largely intact, and the old, crisp white church at the main square makes for a stark contrast to the orange and beige tones of the surrounding hills. This little village is gorgeous on its own, but what makes the almost hour-long trip down south from El Cotillo worth it, are the views from the mountains on the way there. Products of erupted volcanoes, the mountains seem to pop up out of nowhere, and from the viewpoints along the
road, you’ll see them plunge straight into the ocean along the island’s eastern coast. It’s absolutely worth the trip.
One last thing…
Localism
As is the case anywhere where there’s a decent surf, the locals are pretty set on preserving the slow, easy-going vibe in the line-up. As they should! These beaches are theirs, first and foremost, and the only reason you can read about them in this guide is because they were kind enough to let us tourists in on the secret.
be mindful, be respectful, and know your limits, for your own sake as well as theirs.
The bigger breaks in El Cotillo are not really affected by any localism, but head on up to Majanicho, or to Playa de la Mujer, and you might experience something different. So as mentioned; be mindful, be respectful, and know your limits, for your own sake as well as theirs. And don’t get me wrong – all of the local surfers I had the pleasure of sharing a line-up with were nothing if not helpful and welcoming. Let’s make sure we keep it that way, eh?
No matter when during the year you go, Fuerteventura will offer top-class waves for all surfers, as well as beautiful nature, and local, hidden gems dotted along the island’s northern coast, if you just know where to go!
