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Tag:

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    swell liz clark thefreesurfer.com
    bookstravel

    Swell by Liz Clark, a book review

    by Pascal August 8, 2019
    written by Pascal

    Favorite pick

    swell liz clark thefreesurfer.com

    You love surfing, traveling and the ocean? You love freedom and the idea of scheduling your day around tides rather than working hours?

    So did Liz. But she has probably bigger balls than most of us! And she followed her own path with fewer compromises than society tells us we need to make.

    Swell is not a romantic glorification to a life freed from work, but rather an honest and well-written protocol about a relationship with a surfer, a sailor, and a free spirit. It’s the story about the relationship of Liz Clark with her self and everyone who was part of that ride.

    As in every relationship with a surfer, surfing is an essential part of this book, but only ONE part and not the whole story.

    And as in every relationship (with a sailor), it is not only smooth seas and sunsets.

    swell liz clark thefreesurfer.com
    Happy place photo: Patagonia

    Her more than 20’000 nautical miles are impressive and inspiring. And so are the stories of the waves and people she found along the way. But while reading this book, it felt like the biggest journey happened inside her self. The later chapters are written by a much more mature person than the ones beginning. It feels nice to be taken along for her personal transformation, and not only for the trip around half the globe.

    What usually changes a person the most, are not the nice and easy experiences, but rather the hard and painful lessons we would like to leave out. But Liz is honest about those parts of her life too. About how frightening, tiring or boring a solo crossing can be. About the ups and downs of a romance, the difficulties of financing her chosen lifestyle and the personal struggles we all go through. But she also writes about how beautiful it can be, to be with only yourself without feeling lonely.

    I would say it’s more of a sailing book than a surf book. Maybe even a book about a very personal journey of a fearless girl into a very mindful woman. Someone who is aware and outspoken about environmental issues, as much as self-healing, food and various other aspects of life. And the voyage is where her inner journey takes place, while she finds the perfect balance between surf talk, love stories, the reality about maintaining a yacht and everything else that comes along in life. Doesn’t matter if on the sea or on land.

    An absolute must-read for every surfer, sailor, long time traveler or people who like the thought of it.

    Want to order the book?

    Did I say MUST-READ

    August 8, 2019 0 comment
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The Free Surfer | Surf Magazine
  • Home
  • Destinations
    • Europe
      • Portugal
      • Azores, Sao Miguel
      • The Wave, Bristol
      • Fuerteventura – One week at Europe’s North Shore
      • The Ultimate Guide To Surfing In Tenerife
      • Andalucía, Spain’s best known surf secret
    • Africa
      • Taghazout, Morocco
      • Senegal
      • Mozambique
    • Oceania
      • Fiji
    • Asia
      • Philippines
      • Sri Lanka
      • Maldives
      • India
      • Taiwan
      • Mentawai Surftrip on a budget
      • My love-hate relationship with Bali
      • Rediscovering Medewi
      • Nias. The change
      • Lombok
    • Central America
      • Barra photo Love Story
      • Guatemala
      • El Salvador
      • Nicaragua
      • Costa Rica
      • Panama
    • Caribbean
      • Dominican Republic
    • South America
      • Ecuador
      • Peru
  • Surfboards
    • Surfboard Travel Quivers [3 Great Options]
    • Lib Tech review
    • Studer Surfboard review.
    • If and How to order your custom surfboard with Semente
    • Surfboard Monogamy – The idea of a one board quiver
    • Surfing a Fish- Maybe just what your surfing needs
    • Ho Steve surf accessories review
  • Techniques/ Learn how to surf
    • Surf Companion
    • Surf fit/ Paddle fit for your trip
    • All beginnings are difficult
    • 3 surf safety essentials for beginners
    • How to order your custom surfboard
    • Why surfing a twin fin
    • How to surf a twin fin
  • Must read Travel books
    • Travel books by continent, a list
    • Barbarian Days, William Finnegan
    • Swell, Liz Clark
    • Surf Companion
    • Archipel der Wellen, Stefan Götzelmann
    • Fuck you Happiness, Andreas Brendt
    • Insight Africa, Carlo Drechsel
  • This and that
    • Traveling during Corona
    • Senegal, the new Morocco?
    • India, maybe your best surf adventure ever?
    • Sri Lanka in winter. Worth it?
    • Nias. The change
    • The earthquakes in Lombok
    • The high art of slowing down and doing nothing
  • Contact/Collab